A paper mache mask is made by covering a shaped form with layers of paste-soaked newspaper strips, then painting and sealing it. This tutorial walks you through a sturdy, detailed mask in 16 steps, for holidays, Halloween, costumes or just for fun.
Difficulty: medium. Ages: 12+ for the wire-mesh method (an adult should cut and tape the mesh for younger kids). Time: plan on a few days, mostly drying time between steps. Younger kids can make a simpler version on a balloon or cardboard form with adult help.
What You’ll Need
- Plenty of newspaper
- White flour or wood glue (white PVA glue)
- Water and a mixing bowl
- Masking tape
- Scissors (craft scissors for mesh, not your good fabric pair)
- Wire sculpting mesh
- Work gloves
- Paper mache clay (air-dry)
- Sandpaper in a few grits, and a dust mask
- Primer
- Acrylic paints and paintbrushes
- Sealant (spray or brush-on)
- Strong ribbon or twine
- Drill or awl (adult use)
- Tape measure, ruler, pencil, paper and a marker pen
- Sculpting tools (optional)
Safety: cut mesh edges are sharp. Wear gloves, fold or tape every cut edge before the mesh goes near a face, and keep eye holes well trimmed. Don’t put wet paper mache or paste directly on anyone’s skin. Sand in a ventilated space with a dust mask, and spray sealant outdoors. Only an adult should use a drill or awl.
Step 1: Map Out the Face
Measure the wearer’s face. Measure from the top of the forehead to the chin, draw a straight line down the center of a sheet of paper, and mark the top and bottom of the face.
Next, measure from the forehead to the eyes and draw a horizontal line across the paper at that height. You now have a plus sign. Label the horizontal line “eyes.”
Measure to the bottom of the nose and mark it, then measure between the eyes and out to the ears. Mark each on your plan. You’ll use it to sketch the mask.
Step 2: Draw the Mask
Using your marks as guides, draw the mask you’d like to make. Keep it simple on a first try, and use the marks to place the eye holes correctly.
Cut out the paper pattern and hold it up to the face to check the look and fit. It won’t curve like a face, but you can see whether you like the design. Redraw on another sheet to make changes.
Step 3: Transfer the Pattern to Mesh
You may have seen kid-friendly versions that use a balloon as a form. Wire mesh gives more detailed, face-fitting results. Smaller holes make the mesh easier to cover smoothly, but larger holes still work.
Set your paper pattern on the mesh, parallel to the grain, and hold it in place with pegs or tape. Trace the edge with a marker. Draw a little generously, since extra mesh is easy to trim later.
Step 4: Cut the Mesh
Use craft scissors to cut around the outline. Leave the eye holes for now. Wear gloves, and watch for sharp edges.
Step 5: Shape the Mesh
Use your hands to add shape. Gently fold and curve the mesh for a 3D effect, which works well for horns or tentacles.
Hold the mesh close to the face and press it gently along the eyes, nose, cheeks and forehead for a snug fit. Do this several times, smoothing as you go, and trim any excess.
Step 6: Cut Out the Eyes
Once the shape is right, cut the eye holes with craft scissors. Bend any sharp mesh edges back and tape them down (masking tape works) so they point away from the face.
Step 7: Make the Paste and Tear Paper Strips
Mix your paste. For a flour paste, a common ratio is 1 part flour to 1 part water, mixed until smooth (some crafters use 1 part flour to 2 parts water for a thinner paste). Adding a spoonful of salt per cup of flour can help prevent mold, especially in humid weather. White PVA or wood glue thinned with a little water also works and gives a stronger mask, though a wetter mix takes longer to dry.
Tear newspaper into long strips of varying widths. Torn strips blend better than cut ones, and newspaper tears more easily in one direction, so use that. Tear a big stack. You can always tear more later.
Step 8: Add Paper Strips to the Front of the Mask
Dip or brush a strip with paste and smooth it onto the mesh. Keep going until the whole front is covered with no gaps, pressing out bumps and creases. Curve the strips around the shape and tear them so they end at the mesh edge.
Let the first layer dry slightly, then add a second layer, covering any gaps. Work methodically, because gaps are harder to see on the second layer.
Set the mask down until the strips hold in place when touched. This may take an hour or two.
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Step 9: Add Paper Strips to the Back of the Mask
Flip the mask over and repeat on the back, so the mesh is fully covered by two smooth layers and nothing sticks out past the edges. Trim anything that does, and let the layers partly dry.
Two layers on each side is enough for a basic mask. For a more durable mask, add more layers, letting it dry between every couple of layers.
Step 10: Cover All Exposed Edges
Use more paste and strips to wrap the exposed edges, tucking each strip firmly onto the mostly dry layers on either side. Tear very narrow strips for tight corners to avoid creases. Then let the mask dry thoroughly, which may take a day or more. You don’t want to work on damp newspaper in the next step.
Step 11: Add Detail With Paper Mache Clay
When the mask is completely dry, shape paper mache clay in your fingers and press it onto the mask. If the clay isn’t sticking, dab a little water on the mask or on your fingers, which also smooths the edges.
Sculpt horns, warts, eyebrows, wrinkles or any contours. Avoid large or delicate pieces that could snap off. Use sculpting tools or a blunt tool to add texture, and press firmly enough that details remain visible after painting.
You can cover the whole mask in clay for an ultra-smooth surface, but clay is heavier than paper mache, so don’t make the mask uncomfortable to wear. If you stop partway, keep unused clay in an airtight container, and finish any horns or tall shapes before you leave so they don’t dry half-done.
Step 12: Sand the Clay
When the clay is dry, sand away rough spots. Wear a dust mask. Sand where the clay meets the newspaper to blend the join. Use a few grits of sandpaper for an even finish, working gently. Brush off dust with a soft brush or wipe with a slightly damp cloth, and let it dry.
Step 13: Prime the Mask
Brush on a thin, even coat of primer, watching for drips and pooled spots. Let it dry fully (often a couple of hours), then add another coat. More coats give a stronger, smoother base, but each needs drying time.
Step 14: Paint the Mask
Once the primer is dry, paint. Acrylics are the best choice. If you only have watercolors, mixing in some wood glue makes them more durable.
Plan your colors first and test them on scrap paper or dry clay. A light or dark primer coat helps color look even across paper and clay areas, but it isn’t required.
For a shaded look, paint everything a single base color, then mix in a little white or black and paint it onto areas you want lighter or darker, like horns. Use a large brush for blocks of color and fine brushes for details, and clean them well.
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Step 15: Seal the Mask
Don’t skip this. A coat of sealant protects the paint from chipping and helps the mask last longer, especially if it will be worn outside. Choose a glossy or matte finish and apply a couple of thin coats, letting each dry. Spray sealant should be used outdoors or in a ventilated area.
Step 16: Add the Fastener
Use a drill, sturdy hole punch or awl (adult use) to make small holes on each side, a bit in from the edge so the paper mache doesn’t tear. Thread ribbon or twine through each, knot it firmly, and tug lightly to test. A dab of glue can hold the knots. Tie the mask behind the head to wear it.
Paper Mache Mask FAQs
How many layers do you need? Two layers on each side makes a basic mask, and more layers make it stronger.
Is glue or flour better? Flour paste is cheap and easy to make but can go moldy if it stays damp (salt helps). White glue gives a stronger result but costs more.
Can you put paper mache on your face? Don’t apply wet paper mache directly to skin. Build the mask on a form, as in this tutorial, or use a barrier such as plastic wrap if you cast a face. Face casting is best left to experienced makers.
Wrapping Up
Masks have no limit on designs, so try different shapes and colors for your costume wardrobe.
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